Module One. Chapter Nine.

Reverse Applique – Traditional Method

I decided to use some of the procion dyed fabrics from the recent workshop with Ruth Issett for these samples. This sample of traditional reverse applique has a layer of purple muslin, a layer of green cotton lawn and a top layer of silk noil. These fabrics were quite easy to work with, the folds are crisp and being lightweight there is no bulk in the turned edges.

Reverse Applique – Contemporary Method

The sample above has 5 layers of fabric, the lines have been stitched from the inside shape first and the fabric cut away outside the line of stitching.

The sample above also has 5 layers of fabric, this time stitched from the outside shape first and the fabric cut away inside the stitched line.

This sample has 6 layers – I included a layer of painted aida embroidery fabric as I thought the large number of threads would give a good frayed edge – unfortunately the cut edge has lost the colour and has a very grey appearance. I should also have put this layer at the bottom as it is too heavy near the top, the other cut fabric edges are lost below it. It would have been better to omit the aida layer as it is unnecessary and I think it spoils the appearance of this sample.

The shape I chose to use for this ripple effect sample is quite complex and I had to plan quite carefully which areas to cut so that the shape would be discernible. I don’t think the semi sheer fabric used as the top layer was a very good choice as the shape becomes less discernible where the lower layers of fabric are close in colour, also the texture of the top fabric layer conflicts a bit too much with the multi-coloured effect.

I decided to have another go at this sample using a more solid colour for the top fabric layer -

The solid colour gives a more definite contrast to the multi-coloured areas and the shape is therefore well defined.